2004-11-15

Muechen (2004.8.27) - English Garden

  把《我的视觉日记》还掉了,Georgia说(哈,真是语录啊),看了一年总算看完了,看来你的书堆清到去年了。
  拿到的时候看得挺快,呼呼就把前几章人生经历和小道故事看了。到后面人家开始集中精力艺术研究,就索然无味了,也看不明白,还是搁到一边吧。
  前几天说到她的照片,突然想起要认真看看这书,她做了些啥?
  结果看得很带劲,发现去年看了跟白看一样,原来她住在慕尼黑。
  一直被未知的黑幕牢牢盖住的地图已经打开,看书突然充满了各种细枝末节的趣味,地名开始鲜亮起来,每个地方开始变得有意义。
  所以她大段陈述艺术理想的话看得潦潦草草(嗯,她是很努力、很激情地在艺术的大道上矢志不渝往前奔来着),尽兴高采烈地收获些这样的边角料:
  她初到慕尼黑,一周去了三次英国公园,秋天,树叶缤纷美丽。啊,英国公园,这个地方我去过。这想法令人无比愉快。在慕尼黑车站边的旅游信息中心搜罗免费地图未果,退而求其次在景点广告里碰运气,看能不能找到个夹着地图的。结果一眼看到了英国公园的广告,广阔草地上,蒙蒙雾气里,树荫边的一个小亭子。那照片赫然是奥斯汀小说中的场景。
  指着地图上说要去这里,结果那天去新天鹅堡路途漫漫,最后没有时间了。后来去布达佩斯的计划夭折,终于多了一天回到慕尼黑四处游荡,把地图上的这片绿地给走实了,还在下午的暖暖阳光里躺长椅上睡了一觉。
  秋天,肯定是更漂亮了。让人流口水。
  她说,这公园里的急急流水是从巴伐利亚山峰上流下的。嗯,那就该是阿尔卑斯山上下来的。多好阿,难怪那么急那么满。当时转来转去也看不明白。
  然后说出一本书,就那什么Prestel House出的,这家总在最后留个雅致的小广告HQ,既做High Quality,也是Heidelberg Quality。一下想起来那天在海德堡城堡下争论,我们遇到国内的政府职员也在那边玩,心理很不平,于是向kat解释什么是出国考察。她很疑惑,说我认为如果要看一个地方的经济,他就该去看当地的大企业,比如海德堡,就该看一个什么Printing的厂阿,想不起来是哪个,问我们知不知道,世界级一流的。结果我们老往打印机上想,无非HP之类阿,实在想不出那一片还有什么大的IT制造商。其实kat想说的就是这个Heidelberg Quality,专出摄影、艺术、绘画印刷品的。
  最后她用伊萨河收的尾。啊,伊萨河,我喜欢伊萨河……
  这样的症状早已出现,那天在灰扑扑的破书柜里找到龙应台的《在海德堡坠入情网》,简直象从没看到过这书一样。兴致勃勃翻来看,看到故事情节,才想起来早读过,是个诡异的谋杀案。龙应台俺是喜欢的,她犀利尖锐,这说明她聪明而且从不停止思考,不妥协不附和,不好么?但她的小说也一样锐利象切开的伤口。这最终使我连另两本杂文也没有看下去。
  这样和题目大相径庭的不愉快的故事,还是忍不住又仔细读了一遍,就找那些地点来比对了。
  啊,那里面说,一个夏日的黄昏,两个朋友在老城的阳台上聊天,茉莉花香从别处的庭院阳台里飘来,那曾经是谁谁谁的茉莉。咳,没办法,我记不住那谁谁谁,总之海德堡似乎满大街都住过无数的牛人。
  我几乎都闻得到那茉莉了,虽然,在此之前,我并没有在海德堡看到什么茉莉。
  天哪,这样琐琐碎碎地看书真是美妙,这些千丝万缕微妙的关联。脑子里印着Herbert List酒杯里的光泽和波赛冬神庙的幻影,翻看雅典卫城的建筑讲座,在截面图的疑惑和术语的猜测里,不断闪现它不可琢磨、无比遥远的简洁优雅。


急急流水满得象要溢出来一样

I read Wang Xiao Hui lives in Muechen. She said the first autumn there, she went to English Garden 3 times a week. It is beautiful. Ah, English Garden... I've been there. ;)

  
大树草地,典型的英国公园

I suppose it will be nicer in autumn when trees with colors.

  
安静的枝丫落叶和不停的流水

The brook impressed me a lot, running so fast and so full.
  
  
桥下波浪汹涌

It goes so fast, makes big waves under the bridge.

  
幽幽暗暗的水面,通向何处

Sometimes it is hard to tell where is the river surface, where is the grass land edge. The water looks almost overflow, but just not.

  
波浪

The never ending water makes contrast with the tranquil garden.


断层处的小瀑布

Small waterfalls. I wonder where the water comes, why running so fast? Wang wrote, it is from the Bavaria mountains, is it?


日式区域,有棵红叶李

Japanese corner with a Redleaf Cherry Plum.

 
我很佩服天鹅,那么湍急,它不仅能保持原地不动,还气定神闲,优雅得好像水和它没关系

I admire this swan very much. She can stay still so elegantly in the fast-running water.


那个草地上的亭子和野花

I am atracted here by this view on advertisement in tourist info center. It is a mysterious scenary with fog, which reminds me Austin's story. The line under the photo said: English Garden


从草丛深处到远处的亭子

Deep in the grass and beyond


周五下午的阳光和两只大狗 

A happy Friday afternoon with 2 dogs in English Garden


时光流逝

the Time


德国人不是在长跑,就是在骑自行车

Well, people in Muechen makes me think, if a German is not cycling, he must be jogging. :) That Friday afternoon, I see dozens of cyclers and joggers, should say, about once every 5 minutes, one after one.


草地上的大树覆地

Trees over the grass land.


远处慕尼黑地平线

The Muechen skyline view from the tea house


亭子顶上花纹

The nice pattern on the ceiling of tea house


修理中的双塔

Towers in repair


船和起飞的水鸟

Birds and boats


大概长椅上没睡醒,不知道为什么这两张地平线都没端平。

Row


中国亭,气氛也很符合,一个乐队在二楼敲敲打打,下面到处是济济的人们在喝啤酒,一曲终了,下面鼓掌,演奏的人也得意地大呼小叫,直往下挥手鼓动

Chinese House with bands on second floor


有人睡觉,有人喂鸭子

Duck feeder


  
到此一游  

I came and I see

  大图放在
  慕尼黑英国公园

-------------
  12边的5层亭子!!!
评论人:linz 评论日期:2004-11-15 14:03


  这亭子一点也不象欧洲的,到挺有亚洲的风格的.
  漂亮的Garden哦,等着你的评论!^_^
评论人:shellgirl 评论日期:2004-11-15 21:04


  没错,这个是中国亭
评论人:乱看 评论日期:2004-11-16 9:57


  notes by sebastel.
  
  the brook is either the 'Isar' or a sidearm or canal belonging to it.
  yes it comes from the alps. the amount of water changes with the season and the amount of rain that fell the days before.
  you found a situation where the brook is rather full - lot of rain just before you came.
  
  the grass plains along the isar in the english garden once were known especially for nude sunbathers. this habit became less common during recent years.
  
  looking at joggers - well, the english garden is THE perfect place: close to the city centre, green and big enough to run for miles and miles without getting through the same places again and again.
  compared to the number of mouths living in munic, one every five minutes is very very few!
  
  the funny, temple-like building on top of the little hill is called the "monopteros". it has been the meeting point for dropouts and "hippies" (also called "flower children"), until it the character of the audience changed, and policemen often held a razzia there.
  
  the english garden is possibly the most interesting place in munich, maybe in bavaria. (but this is just my personal opinion)
  
  a very interesting approach is to have a "mass" beer (that is one litre!) in the teahouse .... beer and original bavarian leather pants in an almost chinese environment. grotesque!
  
  btw., from my point of view, although it has beautiful sites, munich is overpriced and overrated. preferring cologne.
  
  ;-)
  
评论人:dropin 评论日期:2004-11-16 23:17


  Yes, I noticed there is one or two nudebather on the grass plains. :))
  I agree that garden is perfect for jogging. If I see even more people jogging in the morning or late afternoon, I wont be surprised. But at arround 2 or 3pm Friday, I think they are really fond of jogging, maybe professional. Em, maybe that's vacation season.
  
  About the teahouse, when I put the photos on. My friends noticed it at once, that's typical Chinese structure. And I should say, the atmosphere of bands and beer groups is somehow fit for it. Just like a normal Chinese events place, happy, relaxed, crowded people and a little noisy. :)
  
评论人:乱看 评论日期:2004-11-17 22:26


  sebastel agrees on the atmosphere - but happy, relaxed, crowded and noisy applies for any "good" 'beer garden' (that is the direct translation of the german word) also. that is nothing specific chinese :-)
  
  i related more to the typical bavarian style of clothing and serving beer - that fits to a chinese tower as well as "a fist on the eye". (german saying)
  
  but finally, i agree that it is definitively acceptable.
  somehow.
评论人:dropin 评论日期:2004-11-17 23:52

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